It is pretty common for this sliding pin arrangement to suffer from seizing up. In part, this is because of corrosion that builds up around the rubber boots that are supposed to keep them clean. The boots themselves are typically very swollen due to contamination with mineral grease and so press on the pins. Diligent owners may use copper grease on the rear of the brake pads and pad retaining pins. Unfortunately, copper grease is mineral based and so is bad news for the rubber components. The rubber boots need either grease made from vegetable oil (normally caster oil based 'red rubber grease') or silicon grease.
The callipers front and rear are the same type, sharing 27mm pistons. In fact the calliper bodies for the rear brake and one of the front brakes are identical - only the mounting plates are different. Period road tests described them as adequate rather than good. Later Trophies were fitted with more powerful Nissin double sided four-piston callipers, as used on the original Daytonas and then on the later T5 Sprint models.
Nissin twin-piston front brake callipers |
I found the all three callipers on my bike to be in fair cosmetic condition but with split dust seals. The pistons were very very tight in the calliper bodies, suggesting that corrosion had built up behind the hydraulic seals. So a split, clean and seal replacement was needed.
Starting with the rear brake, the master cylinder appeared to be in reasonable condition but with a rusty pushrod, banjo and brake switch coupling.
Nissin rear brake calliper and master cylinder |
Stripping the brake callipers themselves presented no further surprises. I had pumped the pistons almost all the way out of the calliper bodies before disconnecting the brake pipes. Even so, it was very hard work freeing them off the final two or three millimeters. I used self-gripping pliers cushioned with scrap rubber strips. This is something that must be done with extreme care - use the absolute minimum tension on the pliers to maintain a grip through the rubber strips and a gentle rocking and pulling motion. Patience is the key thing and a risk that the pistons will be damaged in the process. I managed to do it without causing any further damage to the pistons.
As expected, the dust seals were very chewed up and there was a layer of white alloy corrosion behind all the seals. The seals came out easily enough using a very small and blunt flat-bladed screwdriver. Patience and a twisting motion will be your friends. The sliding pin dust boots were variously ripped and swollen.
Rusty sliding pin protruding into ripped rubber boot |
Three stripped and cleaned callipers hanging in the sun to dry |
1 comment:
Looks like you got to those calipers just in time. Liking the grossness of that rear master cylinder though. That is impressively manky!
Incidently I found the slide pins and seals in my rear caliper were the same as those from the front calipers on my CBR600FR. Might be cheaper to order Honda parts than Triumph ones but since Lings don't appear to list them separately I can't tell at the moment.
Is that a nissin caliper tree you have there? :-)
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