Yellow petrol residue on the alternator |
I thought it was due to a faulty float bowl seal on the carburettor for number two cylinder so it was a case of getting the bank of carburettors off the bike and giving them a bit of a birthday. I figured the air filter could do with a clean anyway and, after 53000 miles, I decided it would be wise to change the cam chain (next post). So Ruby was going to get a big birthday.
24 years and 52,995 miles |
So the full list of jobs were: diagnose and solve fuel leak, clean out carb float bowls, clean and re-oil air filter, change air box for a better second-hand part I'd bought from Trevor, change cam chain and check valve clearances. The first four are here.
I have found that the top of the motor tends to accumulate road grit over time. It surprises me because I have inner panels that sit in front of the exhaust pipes and fill the gap above the oil cooler and below the water radiator. Anyway, it is helpful to brush off the cam cover before removing the plug leads. I remember I'd got the coil low tension connectors muddled up when I first tried to restart the engine back in 2012. So when I removed the coils, was very careful to keep note of which connectors belong to which coil.
It is always a bit of a fight to get the carbs out. There is not much room between the airbox and the inlet stubs, and the rubber is ageing. I don't rush at the job, straddle the bike so I can get a good grip on both sides, and put a block against the front tyre to guard against the risk that I'll roll the bike off its stand in my pulling and pushing. The air filter was satisfyingly dirty.
I have had a bottle of RAMAIR foam filter oil for years. I got it for my old GS650 Kat. It has a solvent that evaporates to leave a tacky coating. Good stuff. It just needs engine degreaser to clean it up. I was lucky enough to have a sunny day so the filter dried out quickly and then took the RAMAIR oil very well.
The old air box was severely cracked and my attempt to repair it with filler rod and a soldering iron had finally given up. The replacement box was in great shape and, I realised, had a slightly different design from the broken one. It has a plastic frame that retains the filter and this frame has recesses for four long stainless screws that clamp the sides of the box.
Replacement airbox, with filter frame including recesses for through-bolts on each side. |
The carburettor floats being reset to 15.5mm. Fuel pipes visible beneath |
View of the reoiled filter through the left end of the airbox |
2 comments:
I've been through this fun and games recently too. All finished now but I've yet to get a minute to go for a test run ..... anyhow ..... that float height .... is it correct? The Haynes manual says 14.5 but I'm sure I've read they should be 12.5mm somewhere. The second hand set of carbs I got recently had all floats set to the latter value.
The genuine manual talks about checking the fuel level rather than float height, specifically that it's 1.5mm +/- 1mm above the joint face. With the 12.5 float height all my fuel levels were in spec.
Would be interested to hear how you get on with those float heights as it'll run leaner like that.
Ta
Hi Tim
The float height is not per the Haynes manual, as you rightly say. I was being over cautious about fuel leaks by, in effect, lowering the fuel level by 1mm. This was before I realised the problem was with the fuel pipe rather than with leaking float bowls. However, I decided to stick with it as-is to see how things go. I'm happy with that the result is at least acceptable. The colour of the silencer outlets is grey rather than black. The bike comes off the choke pretty quickly - within 500 metres (though we are in Summer). So I would say low-speed running is not overly lean. Remember I generously re-oiled the air filter at the same time as raising the floats, so that could have richened up the mixture counteracting the change in the fuel level.
I don't have the equipment to check the fuel level directly itself. That involves tapping off of the bottom of the float bowls when the carbs are fitted. So, I can't comment on that. I can say I'm getting about 45 mpg riding my usual 12-mile-each-way commute. It seems fine to me. The carbs do want a balance now though.
Was your trouble also with a split fuel pipe?
L
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