I wanted to make sure my fuel cap was functioning properly. I have had some problems with the breather on the identical item on my 900. It has occasionally failed to admit sufficient air into the tank to allow fuel to exit, especially after a period of high speed running.
The cap is an aircraft-style flush filler cap, operated with a key in spring-loaded mechanism. The key hole is itself hidden under a sprung cover. This cover was loose, not snapping shut, and the key was not centering after the cap was pushed home. Not a big deal but I thought I'd see if I could clean out the components and restore some snap to the action.

The main components of the cap are visible above, including a lid with rotating centre that is hinged to an alloy ring; a retaining tang which is drawn back by the two pegs on the rotating centre; a small spring which forces the tang out to retain the lid by clipping under the forward edge of the tank's filler hole; the main fuel seal which is held against the tank's fuel filler hole by four small springs; a tang retaining cover, and steel retaining disc and two screws which clamp the tang holder and seal in place.
The fuel tank breather is a small air passage that runs from a little hole in the tang retaining cover, through a casting that contains the lock barrel, and through a pair of diaphragms to another little hole next to the hinge. The tank emits a rather attractive humming, whistling noise when in the sun or cooling down after a run. The noise is made by fuel vapor escaping, or air being drawn through these diaphragms.
The little holes are indicated by the tip of a screwdriver in the pictures above.
The left-hand picture above shows the cap without the main fuel seal in place. The four small springs visible around the rotating body apply pressure to the main fuel seal to ensure it works effectively. The right-hand picture shows the cap reassembled.
The cap assembly is retained by four screws into the top of the tank. One is under the lid, preventing the cap from being removed without unlocking it first, the other three are allen-headed screws that pass through the periphery of the hinge ring. Two of the allen-headed screws are just decorative. A rubber dust and dirt seal fits into the top of the tank first, followed by the cap hinge ring.
I cleaned off all the corrosion from the components and lubricated the rubber seal with rubber grease, and the spring-loaded tang with copper grease. I replaced the inner screws with stainless items. Job done.