Wednesday, June 6, 2012

I don't need this pressure on - but I like it anyway

Inspired by Bostik, I decided to fit oil temperature and pressure gauges. The question was, where to?

The sump has three M16 oilway blanking plugs and the original 1/8NPT hole for the standard pressure switch. The pressure and temperature sensors I bought were both 1/8NPT and one of them (can't remember which) came with a clever but rather bulky four-way adapter block, drilled and tapped to 1/4 NPT and with four 1/8 to 1/4 NPT adapters. I fiddled around for ages with various alternatives for fitting the sensors. I decided to try using two M16 to 1/8 NPT adapters in place of two of the three oilway blanking plugs. I chose a drilling beneath the mesh filter for the main supply for the oil temperature sensor, and a drilling adjacent to the standard pressure switch at the rear of the sump for the pressure sensor. I think the latter is intended for an oil pressure test gauge because it doesn't blank a drilling in the sump casting that serves any other obvious purpose. 

I fitted the standard pressure switch and plug beneath the mesh filter for the oil cooler with permanent thread lock and torqued up nicely.

 The 1/8 NPT to M16 adapter plug for the temperature sensor should have been straight forward. Unfortunately, the one I bought had a fairly short thread and the blanking plugs in my sump are headless allen fittings which engage with a thread that doesn't start until approx 10mm into their respective holes. In other words, I got only two turns on the adapter before its head locked against the casting. Also, because these are tapered threads, the threads that were engaged were extremely loose. I've opted for two remedies. I ground down the head of the bolt to effectively lengthen it by about 4mm. I then wound PTFE tape around its threads to help take up some of the remaining clearance, if any, between the threads. I hope this will do the trick (clearly) but I'll have to wait for the start up to find out. This drilling is to an oil way before the oil pump so the oil will not be under pressure here. Unlike the take off for the oil pressure sensor ...
1/8 NPT to M16 brass adapter plug ready for temp sensor
The pressure sensor is pretty bulky and the exhaust headers run very close to the sides of the sump casting. There is a bit of room at the rear so I figured that would be the most likely place to fit it without interference between it and the hot pipes.

Aluminium 1/8NPT to M16 adapter plug with brass
three-way 1/8 NPT adapter, allowing a 90 degree bend
for the pressure sensor.
Even so, a test fitting of the sump showed very little room so I needed to put an 90 degree adapter in between the sensor body and the 1/8NPT to M16 bolt.  This aluminium adapter bolt was included in the gauge kit - a nice long tapered thread so no problem with engaging this one. I used PTFE tape again to give it the best possible chance to seal.
Pressure sensor body in place on the brass three-way adapter

Test fitting of pressure sensor, lined up against exhaust headers
I tagged the pressure sensor feed with
green tape so I wouldn't confuse it with
the temp sensor feed
Rats nest of wires sprouting in all
directions - 20 stripped ends to be
tinned for joining or termination
The sensors use a blue wire to connect to their respective gauges, the temperature sensor also has a white wire to connect to earth. The gauges need a 12v switched supply, earth and feed from their respective sensors. I made up two little looms to do this. I used 5amp blue wire to extend the temperature sensor, black for the earth and green for the pressure sensor.

The sensor mini-loom was for carrying three wires up from the sump to terminate above and in front of the battery. After scrutinizing the wiring diagram in my manual, I worked out that one of the connectors for the third ignition coil (unused on the four-cylinder models) is switched 12volts. It is a red female spade connector. The other one is brown with a yellow tracer and loops to the ignitor box. Not one to play with. Anyway, this unused coil connection runs very close to a place where the main frame tube joins to the box-section rear frame rails, next to the battery. There is a bit of room just here, above a useful little bracket that mounts the starter solenoid. Ideal for keeping connections out of the weather and tidy.

The gauge mini-loom was for carrying four wires (positive from switched supply, negative/earth, and two sensor feeds) from above and in front of the battery to the gauges which will be mounted between the standard clocks and the top yoke.
Four wires for gauge mini-loom: brown for switched supply,
black for earth, blue for temperature sensor feed, and
green for pressure sensor feed. 

Gauge loom ready for wrapping with electrical insulation
tape. I used heat-shrinking tube to seal the soldered joints and
additional, larger section heat-shrink to cover the whole joined area.

Sensor mini-loom, heat-shrink tube installed under the sump,
the other three wires (green for pressure, blue for temperature,
black for earth/negative) ready for wrapping. 

Termination of sensor mini-look: M6 ring for earth, male
bullets for sensor feed wires. Heat-shrink added to protect.

Cleaning threads with M6 tap prior to installation of sump

Pressure (left) and temperature (right) sensors in place on
sump with loom held out of harm's way with a cable clip. 
When I test fitted the right-hand exhaust, I discovered that the sensor body just touched. It might have been OK - but represented too big a risk of frying whatever is inside the sensor body. So I decided to remove a bracket the helps to locate the exhaust headers and to rotate the 90 degree adapter half a turn so the pressure sensor is now centralized behind the sump. In the picture below, it looks as though it is in contact with rear suspension drag link - in fact there is about 5mm clearance. So, no more interference, wiring in place - the job should be a good one. Only time will tell. If not, I'll have to replace the M16 plug and admit it was an adventure that failed.
Final (for now) position of the oil pressure sensor

5 comments:

bostik said...

Like the idea of using the unused ignition coil connection. Wish I'd thought of that!

That oil pressure sensor is big isn't it. What a pain in the proverbial. Does that Final (for now) position not foul the exhaust cross pipe or the boss on it? It's got to be pretty tight in there!

LeT said...

I didn't want to cut into the wiring loom because I'd repaired some previous hacks that had been made to it for a clock (defunct) and an alarm (missing but for a siren bracket). I'm a bit conflicted about doing anything with the ignition circuit - I'll keep an eye on things. I'm going to put a fuse in the connection to be on the safe side.

I'm confident it will be fine but I'll have to cut the mounting bracket off of the cross pipe. It grieves me but there it is - if I want to go with the pressure gauge, I don't think there's an option. I've got a battle on with the silencers anyway - they are seized on to the stainless headers because of a build up of rust where they slide on. I've soaked them in WD40 for months but no sign of movement yet. I could just fit as-is but I'm pretty sure the silencers won't last very long, given the rusting around the join, and so will need to be removed some time soon. I don't want to put a lot of mechanical force through the headers when they are bolted up because it will probably destroy the exhaust gaskets. I might just have to cut the silencers off to replace them. Boo. Hate that idea.

bostik said...

Is there any particular reason you need/want a pressure gauge? My oil temp gauge was borne out of the lack of oil cooler. Have you done anything to drive the need for a pressure gauge?

I must admit I'd be a bit nervous removing that cross pipe support. I'd be wary of side to side and up/down motions/harmonics of the whole system. It's a long run of pipework from the exhaust header mounts to the silencer hangers and that cross brace mount is the only thing stopping the middle of the system moving about.

Where my silencers fit to the headers is slotted. Are yours?

Cheers

LeT said...

I suppose I'd like to know that my oil pump is functioning as intended but it's a bit of fun really. There's nothing in particular I've done to make me suspect that it is dodgy.

I've had another thought about the cross-pipe support. I think a 45 degree adapter would allow me to retain the support and for the pressure sensor to miss the offending header pipe.
http://www.lindengroup.co.uk/adaptor-store/jic-npt-adaptors/npt-male-x-female-45-deg-elbow/
So I'll give that a go before taking the dremel to my cross pipe.

Yes, my silencers are slotted where they slip on to the headers. I can't easily judge how much the headers extend into the silencers beyond the slots. I've hammered a thin screwdriver as far as the end of the slots but still can't see any hint of movement. I haven't tried heat yet. That'll be the next step.

bostik said...

That adapter should do the trick hopefully.

Those silencers are impressively attached. Mine were 'exhaust pasted' on but didn't really put up much of a fight after penetrating fluid was involved. Yours must be made of sterner stuff!

Cheers