I've become fond of using red rubber grease every time rubber components are involved. In the case of the alternator, it was handy for keeping four rubber cush drive blocks in place. The drive works on four vanes on a sort of sprocket that is bolted to the alternator shaft. The cush drive blocks fit between these vanes and the drive, visible as a circular aperture behind my hand in the photo below. The blocks kept falling out of place before I could locate the alternator vanes. I found that sticky red rubber grease did a great job of keeping them put plus, I'm hoping, giving them an easier time in their shock absorbing role.
Turning attention to the cooling system, I got new gaskets for the two hose spigots that the water hoses connect to. The curved one behind the cylinder block is for returning hot water to the pump. The small straight pipe near the left-hand sparkplug tunnel is for the cold water feed to the engine from the radiator.
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| Water pipe test fitted to the front of the engine, showing slightly tatty 'before' state |
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| Front of engine after washing down with white spirit to remove grease and road tar, then spraying with VHT silver and clear laquor |
I added stainless washers above and below the standard fibre washer that dampens engine vibration from damaging the water feed pipe from the pump to the bottom of the radiator. The fibre washer I removed was pretty mashed up so I thought I'd give it an easier time this way. New copper washer on the M6 cylinder drain bolt.
Comparing the left-hand side of the engine before (left) and after (right) my work. I guess it all amounts to going from 'tired' to 'as new' condition. Was it all worth it?To me, yes, it is.
2 comments:
Looks good. I see you've got the sump on so your oil temp/pressure pressures are sorted?
Cheers
I got a pack of 45 degree 1/8th NPT male-female elbows off ebay. That's the next game to play. I've been working on the front end since doing the work you see here.
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